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U20 General Discussion / Re: U20 Questions
« Last post by Bob Abelin on Today at 06:24:41 AM »

The U20 is fairly lightweight so it will get tossed around by large waves.  The deep bulb keel keeps the boat fairly stable, to a point.  I don't have any offshore experience on a U20, but the lake I sail on has a 30 mile fetch and can develop quite large rolling waves (in that 2-3' range).  One thing I've noticed is how dry the boat tends to be in waves.  The spray rails keep a lot of water from splashing onto the deck and it's a fairly comfortable ride upwind.  Is it the best choice for off-shore conditions?  Probably not, the boat has fairly low freeboard so once you exceed it's capabilities its going to get really wet really fast.  However, it can hold it's own against any other ~20 ish foot sport boat in most sea states.   
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U20 General Discussion / U20 Questions
« Last post by Boca U20 on May 20, 2018, 03:19:03 PM »
Hi, I'm in the market for a U20 and am actually looking at one of the boats for sale on this site.  The boat looks to be in great shape, I just want to be sure it will fit my needs.  This question is for anyone who has sailed their U20 in nearshore ocean conditions.  Is the boat suitable for this?  I'm talking maybe a couple miles offshore max in seas 2' - 3' or less.  I wouldn't be sailing to the Bahamas or anything but want to be sure I'm not making a mistake.  We get large boat wakes from passing sports fishing boats and the like and the power boaters around here are not very "rules of the road" savvy, if you get my drift.  So, if you have experience in these conditions, please share how the U20 behaves.  I'm guessing downwind it will be find, but wondering about the upwind situation.  Thanks for your help!
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Looking forward to sailing with/against everyone@ Huntington.

Can I get some clarification on registration procedures?  It looks like we are supposed to register twice- once for PCCs (which is really just the additional Friday Racing) and again for High Sierra (which will be Saturday and Sunday of PCCs).

As of this morning, I see Donna is registered for both "events" while Chris, Travis and Bob have only registered for PCCs.  Can I get some direction?   


Jay
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U20 Regattas - Where, When & Who's Going! / Re: 2018 Race Results
« Last post by Mike Josselyn on May 13, 2018, 07:56:55 PM »
Behrens Regatta was held on May 5th at the Tiburon Yacht Club on San Francisco Bay.   Three U20s comprised one division.  Courses were designed around standard navigation marks around the north bay.  A strong snow melt assisted ebb in the middle of the course with flood currents on either side complicated the strategies.   Winds were light and building to 15 knots during the last race.  Crew work was important on the marks as every mark was contested.  Spinnaker runs were fast with top speeds around 10 knots.   Dave Woodside's Uagain was first, Mike Josselyn's Uhoo! second, and Breakaway driven by John Wolfe was third.   
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U20 General Discussion / Ullman Sails U20 deal
« Last post by TimPorter on May 12, 2018, 04:24:58 AM »
If you are looking to get some new sails Ullman is running a deal.  Flyer attached.  I am obviously pretty happy with the new cuts. 
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Equipment & Sails for Sale / Re: Used sail market?
« Last post by Bob Abelin on May 09, 2018, 12:47:11 PM »
Thanks everyone for contacting me about the sails.  At this point I've sold all of the decent sails except for some practice spinnakers if anyone need one of those.

Bob
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U20 Regattas - Where, When & Who's Going! / 2018 Race Results
« Last post by TimPorter on May 07, 2018, 09:10:36 AM »
In the spirit of the post from 2017; posting results from 2018.
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U20 Boat Maintenance & Care / Re: Deck Hardware Epoxy Rebedding/Drying
« Last post by Bob Abelin on May 03, 2018, 06:58:12 AM »
Thanks Travis, I watched a bunch of older San Juan 21s suffer from this so I knew to look for it on the U20.  If you want to probe some of your fittings for problems I'd start with the spinnaker blocks, the main traveler track, and the forward screws on the hatch track.  These spots were by far the worst areas on #63.
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U20 Boat Maintenance & Care / Re: Deck Hardware Epoxy Rebedding/Drying
« Last post by Travis Gregory on May 02, 2018, 05:43:46 PM »
Awesome post.  Now I am worrying about my fittings!  :o
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U20 Boat Maintenance & Care / Deck Hardware Epoxy Rebedding/Drying
« Last post by Bob Abelin on May 01, 2018, 07:22:33 AM »
Have you checked your deck fitting for leaks and wet core issues?  If not you really should.  A wet core will kill the decks on the U20.  You should check and reseal your deck hardware regularly to prevent this issue.  Alternatively you can follow the steps below and hopefully never need to worry about it ever again.

Last fall I purchased #63 built in 1996.  The boat was well maintained but did have some leaking deck hardware.  Thankfully most of the deck holes were dry inside, but a few were damp and a couple had some rotten balsa around the bolt holes.  Time for a head liner replacement?  Thankfully not.  There is a method to fix minor balsa rot issues without cutting into anything.  This is a method that I used on my old San Juan 21 which also had a balsa core deck.

Fixing the deck takes a few steps, but it will create a permanent fix.  If you want to solve the problem forever it’s worth it to treat every hole on the entire deck.  This makes for a time consuming job, but your boat will thank you in the long run.  So here are the steps:

1.   Remove all deck hardware, this mean everything, every cleat, pulley, guide, and track, including the hatch tracks. 

2.   Get a few medium sized nails and bend the tips to 90 degrees at a variety of lengths.  Use these nails to probe all the holes searching for wet balsa and rot.  If you find any wet balsa or rot, use the nails to clean out as much of the bad core as you can through the holes.  You’ll be surprised how much material you can get out from around the holes.  Work each hole until you (hopefully) hit solid core.  Even if you don’t find any wet balsa, it’s worth it to use a drill with the nails to rip out some of the balsa core around the holes in preparation for Step 5.



3.   If you can get all of the rotten core out but it still seems wet, you may still be ok if you have some time and a dry place to let the boat sit.  Several of the holes on #63 were still wet when I took everything apart last fall, so I covered the boat and let it sit in a dry place all winter.  This did a good job of drying out most of the core.  If you live in a humid climate the core many never dry unless you can get the boat inside.



4.   What if you still have water in the core after letting the boat sit for a while?  If you have a lot of holes that are still wet you may be out of luck and may need to cut things out to fix it.  If it’s just a few holes, there is one other trick you can try.  Number 63 had two holes that didn’t dry fully over the winter so I had to use my last option, a micro fan.  I built a little fan using the motor and rotor blade from an old micro drone.  I made a housing for it out of cardboard, hooked it up to a C battery, and taped it to holes blowing out.  The C battery will run that little fan for five days constantly circulating air through the wet holes.  After the fan treatment my holes were completely dry and I moved to Step 5.



5.   With all of the deck holes clean and dry, I mixed up some West Systems epoxy with low-density filler added and then proceeded to fill up all of the holes.  This took and entire day and in retrospect I probably could have been it easier with a syringe to inject the epoxy into the holes.  The holes will take quite a bit of epoxy and may need to be ‘burped’ a few times to completely fill them.  The epoxy should attach to and seal all of the balsa around the holes, preventing future wetness problems.

6.   After the epoxy cures, redrill the holes and reattach the deck hardware using an appropriate marine sealant.  If you can avoid it, don’t use silicone.  Silicone works for a while but is not a good permeant seal and is almost impossible to remove completely if anything needs to be resealed in the future. 

So there you go, you owe it to your boat to inspect the deck hardware to see if anything is leaking.  A fix now could save you a major headache down the road.  This seems a like a big job, but if you do it right your balsa core will thank you and should never need repairs.  Good luck!
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